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With ammoniated systems, lifting the hair multiple levels will usually lead to brassiness. Since this application can be performed without harsh, more damaging ammonia, the system is able to keep the overall lifting process more balanced and controlled. When formulated correctly, it should not be necessary for you to cool and/or tone hair as the lift will be consistent and natural. The presence and “burn” of ammonia in the course of lifting the hair is reacting or “processing” in part by burning up some of the present alkali of the hair. Since this system is free of ammonia, that reduction of alkali is not taking place so that about 70% of the alkali level present before the process is preserved and left to prevent the brassiness while keeping the hair structure more balanced.

To begin, you need to analyze the hair carefully to determine several factors that will influence the hair’s willingness to accept color. What is the percentage of grey hair? Is there one completely grey area surrounded by pigmented or partially pigmented hair? What is the texture and level of the pigmented hair if any? All of these factors must be considered. You should apply the color, with brush or bottle on very thin sections of hair, thin enough to see thru, and totally saturate these sections. When formulating with the pHormulate System for natural shades, drop one level in the N series and process at room temperature for 30 up to 45 minutes using pHormulate 20 Volume color developer in most cases.

When working in lower levels, up to level 4, you are able to intensify the perceived depth of your chosen level without dropping to a lower level by adding 1/8 oz of level 1N to your 2 oz formula. Keep in mind that this level 1N is very concentrated at the lowest end of the color spectrum and can have a strong influence on the outcome of the service. To add over 1/8 oz to a 2 oz formula may cause you to drop a level, so it is recommended that you are conservative in your formulations.

While a color treatment shampoo and conditioning regimen, like pHormulate Revive and Repair Shampoo and Conditioner, will provide substantial UV protection to color-treated hair, you can also provide a color- based shield to help prevent some sun damage. Choose the N Series natural Level that is closest to your client’s natural or desired color. Formulate a mixture that is 1 oz of N Series Level and 1 oz of 0 mixed with 1 oz of Demi and 1 oz of 10 Volume developer (if the hair has extreme sun damage, use only Demi developer). Apply all over to shampooed and conditioned damp hair. Process for 5-15 minutes and then shampoo off.

When formulating with the N Series, you are able to achieve adequate lift without gold or brassiness being mindful to process for the recommended amount of time so that your color is not under-developed. Formulate according to the pHormulate Swatch Guide and the pHormulate Lift and Deposit Chart. Knowing your client, if you can predict that extreme brassiness may present itself, add ¼ oz – ½ oz of Drabber Adjuster to the formula. Another remedy for unwanted brass is to mix equal parts of Drabber Adjuster and water and apply to the hair at the bowl. Watch carefully, usually for 7-10 minutes, for the color to neutralize. You may also need to increase developer volume and/or processing time for best results.